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《中国化妆品科学》创刊仪式 《中国化妆品科学》酶基专栏正式启动 2025科学家(国际)大会第二届中国化妆品科技赋能论坛.jpg
2026年02期
基础科学研究
Basic Research

两种海洋微生物发酵提取物复配物的抗衰老作用研究

Study on the Anti-aging Effects of a Composite of Two Marine Microbial Fermentation Extracts

冯潇;张敏杰;黄幸鸽;Silvia Pastor;宣灵灵;钱若男;肖月;王福铭;魏云;沈佳琪;王菁 FENG Xiao;ZHANG Minjie;HUANG Xingge;Silvia Pastor;XUAN Lingling;Qian Ruonan;XIAO Yue;WANG Fuming;WEI Yun;SHEN Jiaqi;WANG Jing

旨在探究海洋来源芽孢杆菌发酵提取物(BFE)和假交替单胞菌发酵提取物(PFE)复配组合物(YOUTH)的抗衰老作用。通过检测衰老标志物、细胞外基质成分,并结合转录组测序分析衰老相关分泌表型(SASP)相关基因表达,全面评估 YOUTH 的抗衰老效果。结果表明,BFE 与 PFE 在抑制 SA-β-gal 酶活和 ROS 生成指标上具有协同作用,此外,YOUTH 还能下调 p21 和 p53 的表达,促进 I、III、IV 型胶原蛋白及弹性蛋白的生成。转录组分析显示,YOUTH能抑制 5 个衰老相关基因(IGFBP3、RRM2B、COMP、A2M、MMP3)的表达,上调 2 个保护性基因(MFAP4、SOD3)的表达。综上,YOUTH 通过调控 SASP 相关基因、重塑细胞外基质及抑制氧化应激发挥皮肤抗衰老作用,具有作为抗衰老活性成分的巨大潜力。

This study aimed to explore the anti-aging effect of a composite formulation comprising marine-derived Bacillus ferment extract (BFE) and Pseudoalteromonas ferment extract (PFE). The anti-aging efficacy of the composite (designated as YOUTH) was comprehensively evaluated by detecting senescence markers (SA-β-galactosidase(SA-β-gal), reactive oxygen species (ROS), p53, p21), extracellular matrix components (collagen, elastin), combined with transcriptome sequencing analysis of senescence-associated secretory phenotype (SASP)-related gene expression. The results demonstrated that YOUTH significantly inhibited the activities of SA-β-gal enzyme and ROS production and downregulated the expression of p21 and p53. It also promoted the synthesis of type I, III, and IV collagens as well as elastin in human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs). Transcriptome analysis indicated that YOUTH suppressed the expression of five senescence-associated genes (IGFBP3, RRM2B, COMP, A2M, MMP3) while upregulating two protective genes (MFAP4, SOD3). In conclusion, YOUTH exerts skin anti-aging effects by regulating SASP-related genes, remodeling the extracellular matrix and inhibiting oxidative stress, thus exhibiting great potential as an anti-aging active ingredient.

2026 年 02 期 ;
[下载次数: 24 ] [被引频次: 0 ] [阅读次数: 45 ] PDF 引用本文
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Basic Research

β- 葡聚糖的舒缓与修护功能研究

Research on the Soothing and Repair Functions of β-Glucan Skin Care Products

贺锐;许华芹;袁道欢;马益婷;蔡晓君;谢圆芳;田佳佳;解勇 HE Rui;XU Huaqin;YUAN Daohuan;MA Yiting;CAI Xiaojun;XIE Yuanfang;TIAN Jiajia;XIE Yong

通过开展体外抑制透明质酸酶、RAW 细胞抑制炎症因子 TNF-α、HaCaT 细胞修护、HaCaT 细胞抗紫外实验研究 β- 葡聚糖保湿舒缓、修护、抗紫外的功效并探讨其功效机理。生化实验结果显示,β- 葡聚糖能够显著抑制透明质酸酶的活性(P<0.05*),具有一定的保湿舒缓功效。细胞实验结果表明,β- 葡聚糖能显著抑制炎症因子 TNF-α 的分泌(P<0.05*),具有舒缓抗炎的功效;也能显著促进 HaCaT 细胞增殖(P<0.05*),侧面反应其具有修护的功效;同时还对防紫外辐射有一定的效果(P<0.05*),说明具有抗紫外辐射的功效。综上,β- 葡聚糖可通过抑制透明质酸降解、抑制炎症因子 TNF-α 分泌,同时促进角质层增殖代谢与抗紫外进而达到舒缓修护的功效。研究结果可为进一步探究 β- 葡聚糖护肤品的功效提供参考。

Specifically, in vitro assays (hyaluronidase inhibition, suppression of inflammatory factor TNF-α in RAW 264.7 cells, HaCaT cell repair, and HaCaT cell anti-ultraviolet tests) were conducted to investigate the moisturizing, soothing, reparative, and anti-ultraviolet properties of β-glucan, along with their underlying mechanisms.Biochemical assay results revealed that β-glucan significantly inhibited hyaluronidase activity (P<0.05*), confirming its moisturizing and soothing potential. Cell-based experiments demonstrated that β-glucan markedly suppressed the secretion of the inflammatory cytokine TNF-α (P<0.05*), thereby exerting anti-inflammatory and soothing effects; it also significantly promoted HaCaT cell proliferation (P<0.05*), which indirectly indicates its repairing efficacy.. Additionally, β-glucan exhibited a notable antiultraviolet effect (P<0.05*), verifying its capacity to protect against ultraviolet damage.In summary, β-glucan exerts soothing and reparative effects through multiple mechanisms: inhibiting hyaluronic acid degradation, suppressing TNF-α secretion, enhancing stratum corneum proliferation and metabolism, and providing antiultraviolet protection. These findings provide a scientific basis for further research into the efficacy of β-glucan in skincare formulations and its application in functional cosmetic development.

2026 年 02 期 ;
[下载次数: 14 ] [被引频次: 0 ] [阅读次数: 51 ] PDF 引用本文
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Basic Research

白晶番茄纳米脂质体 (LUMINA LP10) 的 皮肤抗皱和修护以及美白祛斑研究

Effect of Tomato Nano Lipid, Lumina LP10, on Skin Anti-wrinkle, Repair and Whitening

沈苗;吕辉 SHEN Miao;LV Hui

研究白晶番茄纳米脂质体(LUMINA LP10)对皮肤的抗皱,修护和美白祛斑的功效。使用斑马鱼 I 型胶原蛋白基因表达促进 , 中性粒细胞抑制,和斑马鱼胚胎黑色素生成抑制的研究,分别判断纳米脂质体(富含无色类胡萝卜素 Phytoene& Phytofluene-P&P)的功效作用。与空白组相比,样品在 0.1% 和 1.0% w/w 浓度下对斑马鱼 I 型胶原蛋白基因 (COL1a1a, COL1a1b, COL1a2)表达促进率分别为 46.95% 和 68.91%,30.54% 和 126.38%,73.43% 和 61.88%(P<0.05); 与模型组相比,样品在 0.1% 和 1% 的浓度下,对斑马鱼特定区域的中性粒细胞聚集抑制率,分别为 31.90% 和 72.84%(P<0.05); 与空白组相比,样品在 0.1% 和 1% 浓度下,斑马鱼胚胎的黑色素抑制率分别为 14.32% 和 21.74%,均有显著性差异(P<0.05)。结果表明白晶番茄纳米脂质体(LUMINA LP10)能显著促进斑马鱼 I 型胶原蛋白基因表达;能显著抑制斑马鱼特定区域的中性粒细胞聚集和斑马鱼胚胎黑色素生成。

Effect study of tomato nano lipid, LUMINA LP10, on skin anti-wrinkle, repair, whitening and spot removal. Using study of zebrafish I type collagen gene expression change, neutrophils, and zebrafish embryonic melanin inhibit to assess the effectiveness of tomato nano lipid, which contains colorless carotenoids (Phytoene & Phytofluene P&P). Compared with the blank control group, the samples exhibited 46.95% and 68.91% (COL1a1a), 30.54% and 126.38% (COL1a1b), and 73.43% and 61.88% (COL1a2) boost rates of zebrafish type I collagen genes at 0.1% and 1.0% w/w concentrations respectively (P<0.05); Compared with the model group, the samples showed 31.90% and 72.84% inhibition of neutrophil aggregation in specific zebrafish regions at 0.1% and 1% concentrations (P<0.05); Compared with the blank control group, the samples demonstrated 14.32% and 21.74% inhibition of melanin formation in zebrafish embryos at 0.1% and 1% concentrations, both showing significant differences (P<0.05). Conclusion: LUMINA LP10, a nanoliposome formulation of golden tomato (Lumenato), significantly enhances type I collagen gene expression in zebrafish, effectively suppresses neutrophil aggregation in specific zebrafish regions, and markedly inhibits melanin production in zebrafish embryos.

2026 年 02 期 ;
[下载次数: 4 ] [被引频次: 0 ] [阅读次数: 30 ] PDF 引用本文
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Basic Research

皮肤炎性衰老的作用机制及壳聚糖与其 O 位羧甲基衍生物的干预路径探究

Mechanisms of Inflammatory Aging in Skin and the Intervention Pathways of Chitosan and its O-carboxymethyl Derivatives

阎凌翔;方庆秋 ;徐宇帆;范蔚然 YAN Lingxiang;FANG Qingqiu; XU Yufan;FAN Weiran

慢性炎症是皮肤衰老进程中的关键驱动因素,其通过激活 MAPK、NF-κB 等关键信号通路,促进 IL-1β、TNF-α 等炎症因子的释放,在分子、细胞、器官及免疫学等多个层面协同加剧皮肤衰老的发生与发展。壳聚糖作为一种天然多糖,展现出显著的抗炎生物活性,其作用机制主要包括抑制 MAPK、PI3K/Akt 等信号通路的异常激活,减少 IL-6、TNF-α 等促炎因子的过度表达,并通过双向免疫调节作用平衡巨噬细胞功能。研究表明,壳聚糖及其衍生物不仅能直接干预炎症信号传导,还可增强巨噬细胞的吞噬能力以维持组织微环境稳态。O- 羧甲基壳聚糖作为壳聚糖的重要衍生物,通过 O 位羧甲基化修饰显著提升了其水溶性与生物相容性,同时兼具抗氧化、抗菌等生物学特性,为开发高效、安全的抗炎抗衰护肤产品提供了重要的应用前景。

Chronic inflammation is a key driver in the process of skin aging. It synergistically exacerbates the occurrence and development of skin aging at multiple levels—molecular, cellular, organ, and immunological—by activating key signaling pathways such as MAPK and NF-κB and promoting the release of inflammatory factors including IL-1β and TNF-α. As a natural polysaccharide, chitosan exhibits significant anti-inflammatory biological activity. Its mechanisms of action mainly involve inhibiting the abnormal activation of signaling pathways like MAPK and PI3K/Akt, reducing the overexpression of pro-inflammatory factors such as IL-6 and TNF-α, and balancing macrophage function through bidirectional immunomodulatory effects. Studies have demonstrated that chitosan and its derivatives not only directly interfere with inflammatory signal transduction but also enhance the phagocytic capacity of macrophages to maintain tissue microenvironment homeostasis. As an important derivative of chitosan, O-carboxymethyl chitosan significantly improves its water solubility and biocompatibility via O-position carboxymethylation modification. It also possesses biological properties such as antioxidant and antibacterial activities, offering important application prospects for the development of efficient and safe anti-inflammatory and anti-aging skincare products.

2026 年 02 期 ;
[下载次数: 6 ] [被引频次: 0 ] [阅读次数: 25 ] PDF 引用本文
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研究论文
Research Paper

口服与外用协同干预对皮肤生理功能的综合影响:基于胶原蛋白与玫瑰花提取物的人体试验研究

Comprehensive Effects of Combined Oral and Topical Intervention on Skin Physiological Functions: A Human Clinical Study Based on Collagen and Rose Extract

冯秋红;乐慧;蔡彬弟;刘思桐;袁洁 FENG Qiuhong;LE Hui;CAI Bindi;LIU Sitong;YUAN Jie

本研究旨在系统评估口服与外用含胶原蛋白及玫瑰花提取物的产品对皮肤生理指标的改善作用。通过为期 28 天的随机分组试验,将 99 名受试者分为外用组、口服组及联用组,分别使用贵妇膏 / 霜、玫瑰松茸胶原蛋白肽饮或两者联用,并采用专业皮肤测试仪器定量检测角质层水分含量、经表皮水分流失(TEWL)、红区面积、弹性、紧致度、皱纹参数及真皮层结构等指标。结果显示,口服干预在提升皮肤水分含量、改善皱纹数量、长度及增加真皮层厚度方面效果更显著;外用干预在快速舒缓退红、增强屏障功能及提高真皮层密度方面表现更优;联用组在所有测试指标上均呈现最佳的协同改善效果。表明“内服 + 外用”联合干预策略在改善皮肤屏障功能、水合状态、弹性、抗皱及结构重建方面具有综合优势,为其在皮肤健康管理中的应用提供了依据。

This study aimed to systematically evaluate the effects of oral and topical products containing collagen and rose extract on skin physiological parameters. A 28-day randomized trial was conducted with 99 subjects divided into a topical group, an oral group, and a combination group. The groups used Mirabilis Lady Cream/Mirabilis Lady ointment, Rose Matsutake Collagen Peptide Drink, or both, respectively. Quantitative assessments using professional skin testing instruments included stratum corneum hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), red area, elasticity, firmness, wrinkle parameters, and dermal structure. The results showed that oral intervention was more effective in enhancing skin hydration, reducing wrinkle number and length, and increasing dermal thickness. Topical intervention performed better in rapidly alleviating skin redness, enhancing barrier function, and improving dermal density. The combination group demonstrated the best synergistic improvement across all measured parameters. These findings indicate that the combined "oral + topical" strategy offers comprehensive benefits in improving skin barrier function, hydration, elasticity, antiwrinkle efficacy, and structural reconstruction, providing a scientific basis for its application in skin health management.

2026 年 02 期 ;
[下载次数: 8 ] [被引频次: 0 ] [阅读次数: 42 ] PDF 引用本文
[Downloads: 8 ] [Citations: 0 ] [Reads: 42 ] PDF Cite this article
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