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小分子深海两节荠籽油的制备及性能表征
Study on the preparation and efficacy of small molecular crambe abyssinica seed oil
徐思伟;林琳;袁菊懋 XU Siwei;LIN Lin;YUAN Jumao为了提升植物油脂在化妆品应用中的肤感，降低粘腻性。通过米曲霉来源的脂肪酶对 深海两节荠籽油（Crambe Abyssinica Seel Oil，CASO）进行水解，对其水解率、黏度和润湿性等 理化性质进行测试。结果表明：米曲霉来源的脂肪酶对 CASO 的水解率为57.26%，水解后的产 物主要为甘油单酯，且分子量分布较窄。从紫外可见光光谱分析结果来看，水解后的样品发生了蓝 移，证明了水解反应的发生。水解后的黏度降低 59.97%。且在固液接触角测试中，水解后的小分 子深海两节荠籽油与钛白粉的润湿性更佳，表明水解后的深海两节荠籽油可进一步应用到彩妆、 防晒和洁面等产品中，有助于润湿粉体和提升肤化妆品的清爽肤感。
In order to enhance the skin feeling of the vegetable oil in cosmetics and reduce its stickiness, crambe abyssinica seed oil was hydrolyzed with lipase derived from Aspergillus oryzae, and its hydrolysis rate, viscosity and wettability were tested. In the results, the hydrolysis rate of crambe abyssinica seed oil was 57.26%, and the main products were monoglyceride with narrow molecular weight distribution. Meanwhile, compared with the UV-visible spectrum, the sample was blue shifted after hydrolysis, which further proved that the hydrolysis reaction occurred. After hydrolysis, the viscosity was reduced by 59.97%. Additionally,in the solid-liquid contact Angle test, the wettability between the hydrolyzed crambe abyssinica seed oil and titanium dioxide was proved better. The hydrolyzed crambe abyssinica seed oil was hopefully further applied to makeup, sunscreen and facial cleaning products to achieve the effects of refreshing the skin and wetting powders.
基于高通量测序解析椰油酰水解胶原蛋白钾 / 透明 质酸组合物延缓皮肤衰老的潜在分子机制
High-Throughput Sequencing Reveals the Potential Mechanisms of Potassium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen and Hyaluronic Acid Combination in Delaying Skin Aging
王峥;樊雨梅;凌沛学;陈爽 WANG Zheng;FAN Yumei;LING Peixue;CHEN Shuang探讨椰油酰水解胶原蛋白钾 / 透 明 质 酸(Potassium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen/ Hyaluronic Acid, PCHC/HA)组合物对成纤维细胞 I 型胶原蛋白、VII 型胶原蛋白和纤连蛋白分泌 的影响以及可能的作用通路。通过八肽胆囊收缩素(CCK-8)检测 PCHC/HA 对成纤维细胞活性 的影响，利用免疫荧光染色实验评估 PCHC/HA 对成纤维细胞胶原蛋白、纤连蛋白分泌的影响,并利用转录组测序技术分析 PCHC/HA 作用于成纤维细胞的差异表达基因。结果表明，1% 以下 的 PCHC/HA 对成纤维细胞无毒性，且在 0.1~0.5% 内对成纤维细胞有一定的促生长作用。0.5% 的PCHC/HA 可显著促进成纤维细胞 I 型胶原蛋白、VII 型胶原蛋白和纤连蛋白的分泌。PCHC/HA组合物作用于成纤维细胞后，共筛选出 522 个差异表达基因，其中 418 个基因上调，104 个基因下调。GO 功能富集分析结果表明，差异表达基因与对低氧的反应、碳水化合物的代谢和免疫反应的调控等有关；KEGG 通路富集分析表明差异基因参与 HIF-1 信号通路、细胞因子 - 细胞因子受体相互作用和神经活性配体 - 受体相互作用等重要生物学通路。推测，PCHC/HA 组合物可能通过 HIF-1 信号通路发挥延缓皮肤衰老的作用。本文明确了 PCHC/HA 延缓皮肤衰老的效果，填补PCHC/HA 延缓皮肤衰老的研究空白。
Investigation of the effects of potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen/hyaluronic acid (PCHC/HA) composition on the secretion of type I collagen, type VII collagen, and fibronectin by fibroblasts and the potential mechanistic pathways. This study investigated the impact of PCHC/HA composition on the secretion of Type I collagen, Type VII collagen, and fibronectin by fibroblasts, as well as the underlying mechanistic pathways. We investigated the effect of PCHC/HA on fibroblast activity using a CCK-8 assay. We evaluated the influence of PCHC/HA on collagen and fibronectin secretion in fibroblasts through immunofluorescence staining. Furthermore, RNA sequencing was utilized to examine the differentially expressed genes in fibroblasts treated with PCHC/HA. The results demonstrated that concentrations below 1% of PCHC/HA were non-toxic to fibroblasts and promoted cell growth within the range of 0.1–0.5%. Notably, at a concentration of 0.5%, PCHC/HA significantly enhanced the secretion of Type I collagen, Type VII collagen and fibronectin by fibroblasts. In this study, a total of 522 differentially expressed genes were identified in fibroblasts treated with PCHC/HA, with 418 genes upregulated and 104 downregulated. Gene Ontology (GO) functional enrichment analysis demonstrated that these differentially expressed genes are associated with responses to hypoxia, carbohydrate metabolism, and the regulation of immune.0responses. Furthermore, Kyoto Encyclopedia of Genes and Genomes (KEGG) pathway enrichment analysis revealed the involvement of these genes in key biological pathways, including the HIF-1 signaling pathway, cytokine-cytokine receptor interaction, and neuroactive ligand-receptor interaction. It is posited that the PCHC/HA composition may exert anti-aging effects on the skin via the HIF-1 signaling pathway. This research provides valuable insights into the anti-aging properties of PCHC/HA composition on the skin, thereby addressing a significant gap in the existing literature.
坛紫菜类菌孢素氨基酸（MAAs）储存条件初探及 在化妆品防晒体系复配稳定性研究
Preliminary Study on Storage Conditions of Mycosporin Amino Acids (MAAs) in Porphyra haitanensis and Its Compound Stability in Cosmetic Sunscreen System
赵永斌;李晓雅;车小梅;张艳;程凯欣;李伟 ZHAO Yongbin;LI Xiaoya;CHE Xiaomei;ZHANG Yan;CHENG Kaixin;LI Wei以坛紫菜为原料，提取类菌孢素氨基酸（MAAs），通过高效液相色谱（HPLC）技术 鉴定其主要成分为 Shionrine 和 Porphyra-334, 经紫外光谱扫描显示两者最大吸收峰均在 334nm。系统探究了温度、pH、光照及储存时长对 MAAs 稳定性的影响，并进一步评估芦荟提取物、迷迭香提取物及绿茶多酚与 MAAs 的复配效果与加入蚕丝蛋白粉、珍珠粉对 MAAs 光稳定性的影响。结果表明：低温（-18℃）、中性条件（pH=6）及避光储存可明显抑制 MAAs 的降解（45℃下分解率 18% ; -18℃下 <1%）；复配体系中，芦荟提取物对 MAAs 的稳定性提升效果最佳（分解率仅 3.1%）；蚕丝蛋白粉珍珠粉混合物对维持 MAAs 的光稳定性有较好的效果。并对不同体系防晒效果进行评估为开发基于坛紫菜 MAAs 的天然生物防晒剂及其防晒成分复配体系提供了理论依据。
Mycosporine amino acids (MAAs) were extracted from Porphyra haitanensis. The main components were identified as Shionrine and Porphyra-334 by high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC), and the maximum absorption peaks of both were 334 nm. The effects of temperature, pH, light and storage time on the stability of MAAs were systematically investigated, and the effects of aloe vera extract, rosemary extract, green tea polyphenols and MAAs were further evaluated. The effects of silk protein powder and pearl powder on the photostability of MAAs were further evaluated. The results showed that: low temperature (-18 ℃), neutral conditions (pH = 6) and dark storage can significantly inhibit the degradation of MAAs (decomposition rate 18% at 45 ℃;-18 ℃ < 1%); in the compound system, aloe vera extract has the best effect on improving the stability of MAAs (decomposition rate is only 3.1%); silk protein powder and pearl powder mixture have a good effect on maintaining the photostability of MAAs.It also evaluates the sunscreen effects of different systems, providing a theoretical basis for the development of natural biological sunscreens based on MAAs from Porphyra haitanensis and their compound systems of sunscreen ingredients.
透明质酸与聚季铵盐 -65 复合物对皮肤屏障修复的作用
Effects of Hyaluronic Acid and Polyquaternium-65 Composite on Skin Barrier Repair
王峥 WANG Zheng制备透明质酸 （Hyaluronic acid, HA）和聚季铵盐 -65 的复合体系（HA-PQ）并考察 HA-PQ 的经皮渗透和修复皮肤屏障损伤的效果。采用 3D 皮肤模型测定 HA-PQ 的经皮渗透，通 过八肽胆囊收缩素（CCK-8）法测定细胞存活率，划痕法测定细胞迁移率，免疫组化法检测丝聚 蛋白的表达，评价 HA-PQ 的经皮渗透及在皮肤屏障损伤方面的作用。结果表明，HA-PQ 能够 经皮渗透，24h 内 HA 的累积透过率可达 42%。1.5% 及以下的 HA-PQ 对角质形成细胞无毒性。HA-PQ 能够显著促进角质形成细胞的迁移。在 UVB 诱导损伤条件下，0.01% 和 0.1% 的 HA-PQ 可显著提升丝聚蛋白的表达，分别使丝聚蛋白的表达提升了 15.25% 和 16.09%。HA-PQ 能够经皮渗透和缓解 UVB 造成的皮肤屏障损伤。
The composite system of Hyaluronic Acid (HA) and Polyquaternium-65 (HA-PQ) was prepared, and its transdermal penetration and effects on repairing skin barrier damage were investigated. A 3D skin model was used to assess the transdermal penetration of HA-PQ. The cell viability was measured using the CCK-8 assay, the cell migration rate was evaluated using the scratch assay, and filaggrin expression was assessed through immunohistochemistry to evaluate the efficacy of HA-PQ in transdermal penetration and skin barrier repair. The results indicate that HA-PQ can penetrate the skin, achieving a cumulative permeability of 42% for HA within 24 hours. HA-PQ concentrations of 1.5% and below were found to be non-toxic to keratinocytes. HA-PQ significantly enhances keratinocyte migration. Under UVB-induced damage, HA-PQ concentrations of 0.01% and 0.1% significantly increased the expression of filaggrin by 15.25% and 16.09%, respectively. HA-PQ can penetrate the skin, effectively reducing damage to the skin barrier that occurs due to UVB.
泊洛沙姆101在沐浴油中的增泡作用
The foaming effect of Poloxamer 101 in bath oil
陆静婷;林 琳;陈丽;徐思伟 LU Jingting;LIN Lin;CHEN Li;XU Siwei为评估泊洛沙姆 101 在沐浴油中的适用性，在沐浴油体系中添加亲油型非离子表面活 性剂泊洛沙姆 101，从多维度考察沐浴油的乳化特性。测试结果表明，添加泊洛沙姆 101 可显著提升体系的发泡性能；添加 5% 和 10%（w/w）泊洛沙姆 101 分别增加 9.65% 和 13.98% 的体系粘度;体系粘度随温度升高而降低，加入泊洛沙姆 101 后对体系的粘温曲线影响较小，在低温（5℃）也能保持溶液的透明性和流动性，5℃下流动相较好。在清洁力测试中，含泊洛沙姆 101 样品提升了对皮脂污布的清洁力，并且对红细胞溶血的刺激性几乎无影响。因此，泊洛沙姆 101 可提升沐浴油体系的发泡性、粘度及清洁能力。
The addition of lipophilic nonionic surfactant. Poloxamer 101 in bath oils significantly improved foaming ability(P<0.05) in a dose-dependent manner. More tests have shown that Poloxamer 101 increased viscosity of the bath oil by 9.65% and 13.98% increment when adding 5% and 10% (w/w) Poloxamer 101 respectively. The viscosity of the bath oils decreased when temperature increased. Meanwhile, the addition of Poloxam 101 represented little effect on the viscosity-temperature curve with little changes of the transparency and fluidity at low temperature (5℃). In the detergency assay, the bath oils with Poloxamer 101 enhanced whiteness of Sebum stained cloth with little effects on the irritation of erythrocyte hemolysis.
