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化妆品中 13 种呋喃香豆素的高效液相色谱 - 串联质谱检测方法
Determination of 13 Furanocoumarins in Cosmetics by High Performance Liquid Chromatography-mass Spectrometry
黄媛媛;王秀桥;高平;黄春梅;陈日檬 HUANG Yuanyuan;WANG Xiuqiao;GAO Ping;HUANG Chunmei;CHEN Rimeng建立了一种同时测定化妆品中 13 种呋喃香豆素含量的高效液相色谱 - 串联质谱检测方 法（High performance liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry/mass spectrometry, HPLC-MS/MS）。化妆品样品经甲醇超声提取后，C18 柱分离，采用多反应监测模式（multiple-reaction monitoring, MRM）进行测定，通过保留时间和特征离子定性，外标法定量。结果表明，13 种呋喃香豆素在 5 ～ 100 ng/mL 浓度范围内呈良好的线性关系（R2 均大于 0.99），检出限为 0.05mg/kg。在不同基质的不同添加水平下，该方法的回收率范围为 81.1 %~111.8%，相对标准偏差（RSD,n=6）为 0.34 %~5.84 %。该方法具有操作简便、抗干扰强、灵敏度高与准确性好等特点，可用于化妆品中 13 种呋喃香豆素的定性与定量分析。
To establish a high performance liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry/ mass Spectrometry(HPLC-MS/MS) method for determination of the content of 13 furanocoumarins in cosmetics. The samples were extracted by methanol, separated by C18 column, and analyzed by mass spectrometer which was operated in a multiple-reaction monitoring mode. The qualitative analysis of the samples was carried out by comparing the retention time and characteristic ions with that of standard material, and the quantitative analysis was carried out by external standard methods .The experiment showed that, a good linear relationship was achieved over the range of 5 ~100 ng/mL with a correlation coefficient of 0.99, the limit of detection was 0.05mg/kg. At different cosmetic matrix with different levels of addition, the recovery range of this method was 81.1%~111.8 %, the relative standard deviation(RSD,n=6)was 0.34 %~5.84 %. This method is exclusive, accurate and sensitive. It is easy to operate, and suitable for qualitative and quantitative analysis of 13 furanocoumarins in cosmetics.
微交联透明质酸钠联合多种氨基酸的抗衰功效
Anti-aging Efficacy of Micro-crosslinked Sodium Hyaluronate Combined with Multiple Amino Acids
王宝群;李亚利;陶莹芳;林莎莎;邹圣灿 WANG Baoqun;LI Yali;TAO Yingfang;LIN Shasha;ZOU Shengcan针对非交联透明质酸钠－氨基酸产品在注射抗衰中补水持久性及促胶原合成能力不足的问题，制备微交联透明质酸钠（HA）- 氨基酸复合物，通过体外实验与细胞模型对比其与市售非交联产品的抗衰功效。除进行自由基清除、抗糖化测试外，进一步探究复合物对人真皮成纤维细胞活性、补水能力及胶原、弹性蛋白基因表达的影响。结果表明微交联复合物无明显细胞毒性（细胞存活率≥ 95%），且在保持与对照组相当抗氧化、抗糖化活性的基础上，显著提升细胞补水能力及胶原、弹性蛋白基因转录水平，尤其弹性蛋白基因表达增量最为突出，证实了微交联 HA 与氨基酸联合应用可增强美容抗衰效果，为注射抗衰产品的研发与优化提供实践支撑。
To address the limitations of non-crosslinked sodium hyaluronate-amino acid products in terms of hydration durability and collagen synthesis capacity for injectable anti-aging applications, a microcrosslinked sodium hyaluronate-amino acid complex was prepared. Its anti-aging efficacy was compared with that of a commercially available non-crosslinked product through in vitro experiments and cell models. In addition to free radical scavenging and anti-glycation assays, the study further investigated the effects of the complex on the viability, hydration capacity, and collagen and elastin gene expression of human dermal fibroblasts. The results showed that the micro-crosslinked complex exhibited no significant cytotoxicity (cell viability ≥95%). While maintaining antioxidant and anti-glycation activities comparable to those of the control group, it significantly enhanced cellular hydration capacity and the transcriptional levels of collagen and elastin genes, with the most prominent increase observed in elastin gene expression. These findings confirm that the combined application of micro-crosslinked hyaluronic acid and amino acids can enhance cosmetic anti-aging effects, providing practical support for the development and optimization of injectable anti-aging products, such as skin booster injections.
含天然香味个人护理产品对儿童情绪放松的影响及评价方法建立
A Multi-dimensional Evaluation of the Effects of Natural Scented Childcare Products on Children's Emotional Relaxation
刘畅;冯聂聂;邱笑阳;陈茹;张金龙 LIU Chang;FENG Nienie;QIU Xiaoyang;CHEN Ru;ZHANG Jinlong本研究旨在建立客观方法来评估含有天然香味的洗护产品对儿童情绪放松的影响。综合脑电图、心电、呼吸信号、血压和面部表情分析技术建立了多维度情绪测量方法，共纳入 26名 9-12 岁儿童进行测试。结果显示使用产品后 5min，α/β 功率比值增加，心率降低；使用产品后 10min，α/β 功率比值依然增加，心率、呼吸频率和脉压均降低，表明实验香型系列产品有助于儿童情绪放松。研究表明该方法适用于评估香味化妆品对儿童的情绪放松效果，且脑电图和心率可作为主要情绪变化的生理参数。该方法可弥补儿童情绪评价能力的局限，为未来研究化妆品对儿童情绪的影响提供辅助。
Although previous studies have reported the effects of scented cosmetic products on adult emotions, research regarding their influence on children's emotions remains limited. This study aimed to establish an objective method for evaluating the effects of naturally scented cleansing and skincare products on emotional relaxation in children. A multidimensional emotion assessment method was established by integrating electroencephalography (EEG), electrocardiography (ECG), respiratory signals, blood pressure, and facial expression analysis technologies. A total of 26 children aged 9–12 years were enrolled in the study for testing. The results demonstrated that 5 minutes after product application, the α/β power ratio increased significantly, whereas heart rate decreased significantly. At 10 minutes after product application, the α/β power ratio increased significantly, while heart rate, respiratory rate, and pulse pressure all decreased significantly. The experimental results indicated that the experimental fragrance product series contributed to emotional relaxation in children. The study demonstrated that this method is suitable for evaluating the emotional relaxation effects of fragranced cosmetic products in children, and that electroencephalography and heart rate may serve as sensitive physiological parameters. This non-invasive and portable method is suitable for children and may compensate for the limitations of children’s self-assessment ability, thereby providing support for future studies on the effects of cosmetic products on children’s emotions.
三七提取物在抗衰老化妆品中的应用研究进展
esearch Progress on the Application of Panax notoginseng Extract in Anti-Aging Cosmetics
石晓征;韩宏;李方彤 SHI Xiaozheng;HAN Hong;LI Fangtong三七提取物富含皂苷、多糖、黄酮等活性分子，是抗衰老化妆品的研究热点。研究表明，三七皂苷可通过清除活性氧、激活 Nrf2/ARE 通路发挥抗氧化作用；经 TGF-β/Smad 信号促进 I 型胶原合成并抑制基质金属蛋白酶活性，同时抑制酪氨酸酶活性和黑色素转运，修复紫外线损伤的皮肤屏障。然而，皂苷分子的经皮渗透效率偏低是应用瓶颈。近年来，微生物发酵工艺被用于提高稀有皂苷含量与活性；纳米脂质体、柔性囊泡、可溶性微针等递送系统改善了透皮吸收；与视黄醇、谷胱甘肽等复配表现出协同增效。当前主要挑战包括人体功效数据不足、递送体系规模化成本较高以及消费者认知有限。随着提取纯化与递送技术持续迭代，三七提取物有望成为抗衰老化妆品中具有差异化竞争力的天然活性成分。
Panax notoginseng extract is rich in active compounds such as saponins, polysaccharides, and flavonoids, making it a focal point in research on anti-aging cosmetics. Studies have shown that Panax notoginseng saponins exert antioxidant effects by scavenging reactive oxygen species and activating the Nrf2/ARE pathway; they promote Type I collagen synthesis and inhibit matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) activity via the TGF-β/Smad signaling pathway, while simultaneously suppressing tyrosinase activity and melanin transport, thereby repairing the skin barrier damaged by UV radiation. However, the low transdermal penetration efficiency of saponin molecules remains a bottleneck for their application. In recent years, microbial fermentation processes have been employed to increase the content and bioactivity of rare saponins; delivery systems such as nanoliposomes, soft vesicles, and soluble microneedles have improved transdermal absorption; and combinations with retinol and glutathione have demonstrated synergistic effects. Current major challenges include insufficient human efficacy data, high costs associated with scaling up delivery systems, and limited consumer awareness. As extraction, purification, and delivery technologies continue to evolve, Panax notoginseng extract is poised to become a natural active ingredient with a unique competitive edge in anti-aging cosmetics.
云南白雪茶的护肤功效研究
Study on Skin Care Effect of Thamnolia Vermicularis Extract
谢圆芳;袁道欢;庞丽婷;沈惠珍;黎夏茹;田佳佳;贺锐;解勇 XIE Yuanfang;YUAN Daohuan;PANG Liting;SHEN Huizhen;LI Xiaoru;TIAN Jiajia;HE Rui;XIE Yong采用 DPPH 抗氧化实验、抗非酶糖基化实验、抗紫外损伤、透明质酸酶抑制与细胞抑制炎症因子 TNF-α 实验研究云南白雪茶提取物的护肤功效。实验结果表明，白雪茶提取物有明显抑制 DPPH 的效果，具有一定的抗氧化与抗糖化功效；也能在细胞水平显著抗紫外损伤照射，有一定的紧致抗皱效果；且白雪茶提取物能显著显著抑制透明质酸酶活性，显著抑制 TNF-α 分泌（P<0.05*）。综上，白雪茶提取物可通过抗氧化、抗糖化、抗紫外损伤进而达到紧致抗皱的效果，同时抑制透明质酸酶降解与炎症因子释放从而达到舒缓的功效。
DPPH free radical antioxidant, anti-glycation, anti-UV, hyaluronidase inhibition and cell inhibition of inflammatory factor TNF-α were used to study the skin care effect of Thamnolia vermicularis extract. The results showed that the extract of Thamnolia vermicularis had obvious inhibitory effect on DPPH, and had certain anti-oxidation and anti-glycation effects. It can also significantly resist ultraviolet irradiation at the cellular level, and has a certain firming and anti-wrinkle effect. And the results of soothing experiment showed that the extract of Thamnolia vermicularis could significantly inhibit the activity of hyaluronidase and the secretion of TNF-α (P<0.05*). In summary, the extract of Thamnolia vermicularis can achieve the effect of tightening and anti-wrinkle through anti-oxidation, anti-glycation and anti-ultraviolet, and at the same time inhibit the degradation of hyaluronidase and the release of inflammatory factors to achieve a soothing effect.
