中国化妆品科学杂志

驴乳粉原料中致病菌污染状况分析

IAnalysis of Pathogenic Bacteria in Raw Material -Donkey Milk Powder

为了解驴乳粉原料的致病菌污染情况，对 23 批存放时间 3 年以上的驴乳粉原料进行 了微生物检测。首先对原料进行了菌落总数计数，对于有菌落检出的原料，对其中可能含有的金黄色葡萄球菌、沙门氏菌、克罗诺杆菌（阪崎肠杆菌）和单核细胞增生李斯特氏菌进行了鉴定和分型。结果其中 1 批原料中经鉴定分型含有金黄色葡萄球菌和鼠伤寒沙门氏菌，另 1 批原料经中经鉴定分型含有克罗诺杆菌（阪崎肠杆菌）和单核细胞增生李斯特氏菌。表明驴乳粉原料有致病菌污染的风险，且不同批次原料染菌的种类存在差别，为后续的工艺优化、防腐策略选择等提供了依据。

To investigate the contamination of pathogenic bacteria in donkey milk powder raw materials, microbial testing was conducted on 23 batches of donkey milk powder raw materials stored for more than 3 years. First, the aerobic plate count was determined for the raw materials. For samples where colonies were detected, identification and typing were performed to check for the presence of Staphylococcus aureus, Salmonella, Cronobacter (Enterobacter sakazakii), and Listeria monocytogenes. The results showed that one batch was identified and typed to contain Staphylococcus aureus and Salmonella Typhimurium, while another batch was identified and typed to contain Cronobacter (Enterobacter sakazakii) and Listeria monocytogenes. This indicates a risk of pathogenic bacterial contamination in donkey milk powder raw materials, with variations in the types of bacteria across different batches, providing a basis for subsequent process optimization and preservative strategy selection.

人工智能赋能中国化妆品产业降本增效和提升转化的路径研究

Artificial intelligence driven Chinese cosmetics industry Research on the Path of Innovation and High Quality Development

人工智能（AI，Artificial intelligence）技术正深度重构化妆品产业价值链。本文解读 和阐述 AI 在成分研发、生产制造、营销零售及用户体验等环节的应用现状和趋势。基于美妆企业案例及行业数据，揭示 AI 技术提升研发效率 30%-50%、降低生产成本 15%-25%、提高营销转化率 40% 的核心思路。研究提出“技术融合 - 数据驱动 - 生态协同”的降本增效和提升转化的路径，为化妆品产业数智化转型和国货新质美妆品牌发展提供理论框架与实践参考。

Artificial intelligence technology (AI) is deeply reconstructing the value chain of the cosmetics industry. This article interprets and elaborates on the current status and trends of AI applications in ingredient research and development, production and manufacturing, marketing and retail, and user experience. Based on case studies of beauty companies and industry data, reveal the core idea of AI technology to improve research and development efficiency by 30% -50%, reduce production costs by 15% -25%, and increase marketing conversion rates by 40%. The study proposes a path of “technology integration data-driven ecological collaboration“ to reduce costs, increase efficiency, and enhance conversion, providing a theoretical framework and practical reference for the digital transformation of the cosmetics industry and the development of

胶原蛋白、类视黄醇等化妆品活性成分对皮肤抗衰老的作用

The effect of active ingredients in cosmetics such as collagen and retinoid on skin anti-aging

科学地认知化妆品的功效成分，探索他们缓解皮肤衰老的机理，从而推出新的功效成分， 是我们的夙愿。胶原蛋白和视黄醇是化妆品中最常用的抗衰老功效成分，他们已经经历了大量研 究并广为市场接受。我们选择这 2 个成分并考察近年来的新进展，尤其是他们的作用机理、构效 关系以及这2类化合物的内在联系。我们还观察了其他常用的抗衰老功效成分烟酰胺（Niacinamide, NAM）和透明质酸（Hyaluronic acid, HA）的进展。新的进展表明，局部视黄醇作用于皮肤的表皮角质形成细胞、真皮内皮细胞和成纤维细胞，从而显示抗衰老作用。局部视黄醇显著增加表皮厚度，显著改善皮肤细胞外基质（Extracellular matrix, ECM）的微环境，它增加真皮血管分布，促进 I 型胶原蛋白、纤维连接蛋白和弹性蛋白的生长。从而解释了视黄醇对衰老的皮肤有非凡的抗衰老作用，扩展了我们对人体皮肤中视黄醇的抗衰老机制的理解。鉴于胶原蛋白和类视黄醇在抗衰老化妆品中的卓越表现，有必要进行深入的研究和创新。开展胶原蛋白的各种进阶，移植类视黄醇化合物为化妆品原料、研发新的衍生物和新化合物 , 研究新的改性原料。将化妆品的安全、有效和使用便捷推上新高度。

Our long cherished wish is to scientifically understand the functional ingredients of cosmetics, explore their mechanisms for alleviating skin aging, and thus introduce new functional ingredients. Collagen and retinol are the most commonly used anti-aging ingredients in cosmetics. They have undergone extensive research and have been widely accepted by the market. We choose these two types of components and examined recent developments, particularly their mechanisms of action, structure-activityrelationships, and their intrinsic relationship. We also observed the progress of other commonly used anti-aging ingredients such as niacinamide and hyaluronic acid. New developments indicate that local retinol acts on the epidermal keratinocytes, dermal endothelial cells, and fibroblasts of the skin, demonstrating anti-aging effects. Local retinol significantly increases epidermal thickness and improves the microenvironment of the extracellular matrix (ECM) in the skin. It increases the distribution of dermal blood vessels and promotes the growth of type I collagen, fibronectin, and elastin. This explains the extraordinary anti-aging effect of retinol in aged human skin, expanding our understanding of the anti-aging mechanism of retinol in human skin. Given the outstanding performance of collagen and retinoid in anti-aging cosmetics, it is necessary to conduct in-depth research and innovation, carry out various advances for collagen, transplant compounds of retinoid to cosmetic raw materials, develop new derivatives and compounds, and explore new modified raw materials. Push the safety, effectiveness, and ease of use of cosmetics to new heights.

积雪草提取物体外舒缓和修复作用研究

Study on the soothing and repairing effects of Centella asiatica (L.) Urban extract in vitro

以研究积雪草提取物对皮肤的舒缓和修复作用为目的，通过体外清除 2,2- 二苯基 -1- 苦酰基（DPPH）、对 H2O2 损伤的人皮肤成纤维细胞（HSF）和人永生化表皮细胞（HaCaT）的保护作用和促 HaCaT 细胞分泌Ⅰ型胶原蛋白（Col Ⅰ）和透明质酸（HA）活性，评价其体外活性。结果表明，积雪草提取物在 200.0 μg/mL 浓度时，对两个皮肤细胞安全无毒性，对 DPPH 自由基清除率为 21.8%；25.0 μg/mL 浓度时，对 H2O2 损伤的 HSF 和 HaCaT 细胞修复率分别为 34.9% 和 23.5%，对 Col Ⅰ分泌的促进率为 29.5%；对 HA 分泌促进率为 20.0%。表明积雪草提取物兼具代表性成分（积雪草酸、羟基积雪草酸、积雪草苷、羟基积雪草苷）活性，在体外能有效抗氧化、促进细胞分泌细胞外基质，具有效舒缓和修复皮肤功效。

To investigate the soothing and repairing the skin effects of Centella asiatica (L.) Urban extract in vitro. The extract was evaluated by its ability to scavenge 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radicals, protect human skin fibroblasts (HSF) and human keratinocyte cell (HaCaT) from H2O2- induced damage, and stimulate the secretion of collagen type I（Col Ⅰ） and hyaluronic acid（HA） by v> HaCaT cells. Results: The Centella asiatica extract was safe to both HSF and HaCaT at the concentration of 200.0 μg/mL. At the concentration of 25.0 μg/mL, it had a DPPH radical scavenging rate of 21.8%, the repair rates for H2O2-damaged HSF and HaCaT cells were 34.9% and 23.5%, and it also promoted the secretion of type I collagen by 29.5% and hyaluronic acid by 20.0%. Conclusion: Centella asiatica extract, with the activity of its representative components (asiatic acid, madecassic acid, asiaticoside, and madecassoside), has been shown to effectively resist oxidation, promote cells to secrete extracellular matrix, and provide soothing and skin-repairing benefits in vitro.

福鼎白茶提取物的抗氧化和抗炎生物活性研究

Investigation into the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory bioactivities of fuding white tea extracts

茶类特色植物的开发使我国植物化妆品具有独特的优势，为评估白茶提取物作为化妆 品原料的抗氧化和抗炎的生物活性潜力，以白毫银针（福鼎白茶中的一种）为原料，采用常规水提法，以黄酮、总酚、氨基酸、生物碱含量为指标，通过四因素三水平的正交实验得到白茶的最佳提取工艺为料液比 1:20，温度 60 ℃，提取时间 2 h，提取次数 3 次。为了筛选出等级较高的白茶品种，应用最佳提取工艺提取白牡丹、正安白茶、兴山白茶。通过比较发现，白毫银针的综合指标最优，白毫银针提取液的黄酮含量为 45.99 mg/g，总酚含量为 66.49 mg/g，氨基酸含量为11.46 mg/g，生物碱含量为 52.06 mg/g。当冻干粉水溶液浓度分别达到 30 μg/mL 和 20 μg/mL 时，ABTS+ 自由基清除率达到 100%。巨噬细胞炎症模型发现白毫银针提取液具有抗炎活性 , 可显著降低巨噬细胞 RAW264.7 中的炎症因子 IL-6 水平，本研究深化了对福鼎白茶作为化妆品功能性成分的科学认知。

The development of characteristic plants such as tea has endowed China's botanical cosmetics with unique advantages. To evaluate the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory bioactive potential of white tea extracts as cosmetic raw materials, Baihao Yinzhen (a variety of Fuding white tea) was selected as the raw material. Using conventional water extraction and targeting flavonoid, total phenol, amino acid, and alkaloid contents as indicators, the optimal extraction process was determined through a three-level orthogonal experiment with four factors. The results showed that the best extraction conditions were a solid-liquid ratio of 1:20, temperature of 60°C, extraction time of 2 hours, and 3 extraction cycles. To screen higher-grade white tea varieties, the optimized process was applied to extract Bai Mudan, Zheng'an white tea, and Xingshan white tea. Comparative analysis revealed that Baihao Yinzhen exhibited the highest comprehensive indices: its extract contained 45.99 mg/g flavonoids, 66.49 mg/g total phenols, 11.46 mg/g amino acids, and 52.06 mg/g alkaloids. When the concentrations of freeze-dried powder aqueous solution reached 30 μg/mL and 20 μg mL, the ABTS+ radical scavenging rate achieved 100%. Additionally, a macrophage inflammation model demonstrated that Baihao Yinzhen extract possessed anti-inflammatory activity, significantly reducing IL-6 levels in RAW264.7 macrophages. This study advances the scientific understanding of Fuding white tea as a functional ingredient in cosmetics.

福鼎白茶提取物的抗氧化和抗炎生物活性研究

Investigation into the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory bioactivities of fuding white tea extracts

茶类特色植物的开发使我国植物化妆品具有独特的优势，为评估白茶提取物作为化妆 品原料的抗氧化和抗炎的生物活性潜力，以白毫银针（福鼎白茶中的一种）为原料，采用常规水提法，以黄酮、总酚、氨基酸、生物碱含量为指标，通过四因素三水平的正交实验得到白茶的最佳提取工艺为料液比 1:20，温度 60 ℃，提取时间 2 h，提取次数 3 次。为了筛选出等级较高的白茶品种，应用最佳提取工艺提取白牡丹、正安白茶、兴山白茶。通过比较发现，白毫银针的综合指标最优，白毫银针提取液的黄酮含量为 45.99 mg/g，总酚含量为 66.49 mg/g，氨基酸含量为11.46 mg/g，生物碱含量为 52.06 mg/g。当冻干粉水溶液浓度分别达到 30 μg/mL 和 20 μg/mL 时，ABTS+ 自由基清除率达到 100%。巨噬细胞炎症模型发现白毫银针提取液具有抗炎活性 , 可显著降低巨噬细胞 RAW264.7 中的炎症因子 IL-6 水平，本研究深化了对福鼎白茶作为化妆品功能性成分的科学认知。

The development of characteristic plants such as tea has endowed China's botanical cosmetics with unique advantages. To evaluate the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory bioactive potential of white tea extracts as cosmetic raw materials, Baihao Yinzhen (a variety of Fuding white tea) was selected as the raw material. Using conventional water extraction and targeting flavonoid, total phenol, amino acid, and alkaloid contents as indicators, the optimal extraction process was determined through a three-level orthogonal experiment with four factors. The results showed that the best extraction conditions were a solid-liquid ratio of 1:20, temperature of 60°C, extraction time of 2 hours, and 3 extraction cycles. To screen higher-grade white tea varieties, the optimized process was applied to extract Bai Mudan, Zheng'an white tea, and Xingshan white tea. Comparative analysis revealed that Baihao Yinzhen exhibited the highest comprehensive indices: its extract contained 45.99 mg/g flavonoids, 66.49 mg/g total phenols, 11.46 mg/g amino acids, and 52.06 mg/g alkaloids. When the concentrations of freeze-dried powder aqueous solution reached 30 μg/mL and 20 μg mL, the ABTS+ radical scavenging rate achieved 100%. Additionally, a macrophage inflammation model demonstrated that Baihao Yinzhen extract possessed anti-inflammatory activity, significantly reducing IL-6 levels in RAW264.7 macrophages. This study advances the scientific understanding of Fuding white tea as a functional ingredient in cosmetics.

驴乳粉原料中致病菌污染状况分析

IAnalysis of Pathogenic Bacteria in Raw Material -Donkey Milk Powder

为了解驴乳粉原料的致病菌污染情况，对 23 批存放时间 3 年以上的驴乳粉原料进行 了微生物检测。首先对原料进行了菌落总数计数，对于有菌落检出的原料，对其中可能含有的金黄色葡萄球菌、沙门氏菌、克罗诺杆菌（阪崎肠杆菌）和单核细胞增生李斯特氏菌进行了鉴定和分型。结果其中 1 批原料中经鉴定分型含有金黄色葡萄球菌和鼠伤寒沙门氏菌，另 1 批原料经中经鉴定分型含有克罗诺杆菌（阪崎肠杆菌）和单核细胞增生李斯特氏菌。表明驴乳粉原料有致病菌污染的风险，且不同批次原料染菌的种类存在差别，为后续的工艺优化、防腐策略选择等提供了依据。

To investigate the contamination of pathogenic bacteria in donkey milk powder raw materials, microbial testing was conducted on 23 batches of donkey milk powder raw materials stored for more than 3 years. First, the aerobic plate count was determined for the raw materials. For samples where colonies were detected, identification and typing were performed to check for the presence of Staphylococcus aureus, Salmonella, Cronobacter (Enterobacter sakazakii), and Listeria monocytogenes. The results showed that one batch was identified and typed to contain Staphylococcus aureus and Salmonella Typhimurium, while another batch was identified and typed to contain Cronobacter (Enterobacter sakazakii) and Listeria monocytogenes. This indicates a risk of pathogenic bacterial contamination in donkey milk powder raw materials, with variations in the types of bacteria across different batches, providing a basis for subsequent process optimization and preservative strategy selection.

茶多酚提取工艺优化及抗氧化作用

Optimization of extraction process and antioxidant effect of tea polyphenols

优化了白牡丹白茶 (Camellia sinensis var. white peony) 和龙井绿茶（Camellia sinensis (L.) O. Ktze）茶多酚的提取工艺，并测试了其抗氧化能力。选取 N- 甲基吡咯烷酮为溶剂，采用单因素和正交实验优化茶多酚的提取工艺，以茶多酚的含量为指标，对液料比、浸提时间和浸提温度等工艺参数进行了研究探索，获得了最佳提取条件。对提取物进行抗氧化能力测试，高于同浓度下维生素 C 的抗氧化效果。

The extraction process of polyphenols from white peony white tea (Camellia sinensis var. white peony) and Longjing green tea(Camellia sinensis (L.) O. Ktze)was optimized, and their antioxidant capacity was tested. N-methylpyrrolidone was selected as solvent, single factor and orthogonal experiment were used to optimize the extraction process of tea polyphenols. With the content of tea polyphenols as index, the solid-liquid ratio, extraction time and extraction temperature were studied to explore the optimal extraction conditions. The antioxidant capacity of NMP extract under this condition was higher than that of vitamin C at the same concentration.

山茶籽油与橄榄油的护肤功效对比研究

Comparative study on skin care efficacy of camellia seed oil and olive oil

山茶籽油和橄榄油是化妆品中应用最广泛的植物油，为探究这两种植物油在护肤功效 上的差异。通过实验对比分析法，考察山茶籽油和橄榄油的抗氧化能力，评价保湿和美白功效。 山茶籽油的 DPPH 自由基清除能力（80.0%±1.5）较橄榄油更高（60.0%±1.7），而橄榄油的 TBARS 生成能力（0.25%±0.02）较山茶籽油（0.15%±0.03）更好；山茶籽油与橄榄油在涂抹于皮肤 4 小时后，前者皮肤水分含量高，即保湿效果优；山茶籽油和橄榄油对斑马鱼胚胎黑色素抑制率分别为 25.5%±3.4 和 20.8%±4.9，山茶籽油比橄榄油的美白效果好。实验结果表明，山茶籽 油在抗氧化活性、保湿、美白方面护肤效果优于橄榄油。

Camellia oleifera seed oil and Olea europaea oil are two of the most commonly utilized botanical oils in dermatological formulations. This study aimed to systematically compare their anti-oxidative, moisturizing, and depigmenting properties through experimental analysis. Antioxidant capacity was determined via DPPH radical scavenging assay and TBARS inhibition test. Camellia oleifera seed oil demonstrated significantly higher DPPH scavenging activity (80.0%±1.5) compared to Olea europaea oil (60.0%±1.7), while Olea europaea oil showed stronger TBARS inhibition (0.25%±0.02 vs. 0.15%±0.03). In vivo skin hydration measurements revealed that Camellia oleifera seed oil application resulted in 4-hour moisture retention of 23.5%±2.1, surpassing Olea europaea oil's 18.7%±1.9. Zebrafish embryo melanogenesis assay indicated Camellia oleifera seed oil's superior depigmenting effect with 25.5%±3.4 melanin inhibition versus Olea europaea oil's 20.8%±4.9. Collectively, these findings establish Camellia oleifera seed oil as a more efficacious multifunctional ingredient for cosmeceutical applications.

天麻提取物在护肤领域的应用潜力

Application potential of the Gastrodia Elata extract in skin care

天麻提取物在抑制黑色素生成、抗氧化、抗炎、抗紫外损伤等功效上具有突出作用， 可作为食品、药品和化妆品原料。本文从功效性、安全性、提取技术、护肤领域应用等角度综述了植物天麻在护肤领域的应用潜力。旨在为天麻提取物在护肤化妆品领域的开发应用提供理论依据。

The extract of Gastrodia Elata plays a prominent role in inhibiting melanin production, antioxidant activity, anti-inflammatory effect, and protecting against ultraviolet damage. It can be used as a raw material for food, pharmaceuticals, and cosmetics. This article reviewed the application potential of Gastrodia Elata in the skin care field from the aspects of functionality, safety, extraction technology, and applications in the skin care field. The aim was to provide a theoretical basis for the development and application of Gastrodia Elata extract in the field of skin care cosmetics..

积雪草提取物体外舒缓和修复作用研究

Study on the soothing and repairing effects of Centella asiatica (L.) Urban extract in vitro

以研究积雪草提取物对皮肤的舒缓和修复作用为目的，通过体外清除 2,2- 二苯基 -1- 苦酰基（DPPH）、对 H2O2 损伤的人皮肤成纤维细胞（HSF）和人永生化表皮细胞（HaCaT）的保护作用和促 HaCaT 细胞分泌Ⅰ型胶原蛋白（Col Ⅰ）和透明质酸（HA）活性，评价其体外活性。结果表明，积雪草提取物在 200.0 μg/mL 浓度时，对两个皮肤细胞安全无毒性，对 DPPH 自由基清除率为 21.8%；25.0 μg/mL 浓度时，对 H2O2 损伤的 HSF 和 HaCaT 细胞修复率分别为 34.9% 和 23.5%，对 Col Ⅰ分泌的促进率为 29.5%；对 HA 分泌促进率为 20.0%。表明积雪草提取物兼具代表性成分（积雪草酸、羟基积雪草酸、积雪草苷、羟基积雪草苷）活性，在体外能有效抗氧化、促进细胞分泌细胞外基质，具有效舒缓和修复皮肤功效。

To investigate the soothing and repairing the skin effects of Centella asiatica (L.) Urban extract in vitro. The extract was evaluated by its ability to scavenge 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radicals, protect human skin fibroblasts (HSF) and human keratinocyte cell (HaCaT) from H2O2- induced damage, and stimulate the secretion of collagen type I（Col Ⅰ） and hyaluronic acid（HA） by v> HaCaT cells. Results: The Centella asiatica extract was safe to both HSF and HaCaT at the concentration of 200.0 μg/mL. At the concentration of 25.0 μg/mL, it had a DPPH radical scavenging rate of 21.8%, the repair rates for H2O2-damaged HSF and HaCaT cells were 34.9% and 23.5%, and it also promoted the secretion of type I collagen by 29.5% and hyaluronic acid by 20.0%. Conclusion: Centella asiatica extract, with the activity of its representative components (asiatic acid, madecassic acid, asiaticoside, and madecassoside), has been shown to effectively resist oxidation, promote cells to secrete extracellular matrix, and provide soothing and skin-repairing benefits in vitro.

化妆品功效成分的透皮吸收机理

Transdermal absorption mechanism of functional ingredients in cosmetics

随着功效性护肤成为中国化妆品市场的主流趋势之一，化妆品功效性成分的透皮吸收 是目前消费者比较关注的。功效成分的透皮吸收决定了护肤的有效性和安全性。因此，我们总结了化妆品功效成分常用的递送载体及其透皮吸收的机理和影响透皮吸收的因素，为化妆品功效成分的有效渗透提供指导和帮助。

With functional skincare becoming one of the mainstream trends in the Chinese cosmetics market, the transdermal absorption of functional ingredients in cosmetics is currently a concern for consumers. The transdermal absorption of functional ingredients determines the effectiveness and safety of skincare. Therefore, we have summarized the commonly used delivery carriers for cosmetic functional ingredients, their transdermal absorption mechanisms, and factors affecting transdermal absorption, providing guidance and assistance for the effective penetration of cosmetic functional ingredients.

胶原蛋白、类视黄醇等化妆品活性成分对皮肤抗衰老的作用

The effect of active ingredients in cosmetics such as collagen and retinoid on skin anti-aging

科学地认知化妆品的功效成分，探索他们缓解皮肤衰老的机理，从而推出新的功效成分， 是我们的夙愿。胶原蛋白和视黄醇是化妆品中最常用的抗衰老功效成分，他们已经经历了大量研 究并广为市场接受。我们选择这 2 个成分并考察近年来的新进展，尤其是他们的作用机理、构效 关系以及这2类化合物的内在联系。我们还观察了其他常用的抗衰老功效成分烟酰胺（Niacinamide, NAM）和透明质酸（Hyaluronic acid, HA）的进展。新的进展表明，局部视黄醇作用于皮肤的表皮角质形成细胞、真皮内皮细胞和成纤维细胞，从而显示抗衰老作用。局部视黄醇显著增加表皮厚度，显著改善皮肤细胞外基质（Extracellular matrix, ECM）的微环境，它增加真皮血管分布，促进 I 型胶原蛋白、纤维连接蛋白和弹性蛋白的生长。从而解释了视黄醇对衰老的皮肤有非凡的抗衰老作用，扩展了我们对人体皮肤中视黄醇的抗衰老机制的理解。鉴于胶原蛋白和类视黄醇在抗衰老化妆品中的卓越表现，有必要进行深入的研究和创新。开展胶原蛋白的各种进阶，移植类视黄醇化合物为化妆品原料、研发新的衍生物和新化合物 , 研究新的改性原料。将化妆品的安全、有效和使用便捷推上新高度。

Our long cherished wish is to scientifically understand the functional ingredients of cosmetics, explore their mechanisms for alleviating skin aging, and thus introduce new functional ingredients. Collagen and retinol are the most commonly used anti-aging ingredients in cosmetics. They have undergone extensive research and have been widely accepted by the market. We choose these two types of components and examined recent developments, particularly their mechanisms of action, structure-activityrelationships, and their intrinsic relationship. We also observed the progress of other commonly used anti-aging ingredients such as niacinamide and hyaluronic acid. New developments indicate that local retinol acts on the epidermal keratinocytes, dermal endothelial cells, and fibroblasts of the skin, demonstrating anti-aging effects. Local retinol significantly increases epidermal thickness and improves the microenvironment of the extracellular matrix (ECM) in the skin. It increases the distribution of dermal blood vessels and promotes the growth of type I collagen, fibronectin, and elastin. This explains the extraordinary anti-aging effect of retinol in aged human skin, expanding our understanding of the anti-aging mechanism of retinol in human skin. Given the outstanding performance of collagen and retinoid in anti-aging cosmetics, it is necessary to conduct in-depth research and innovation, carry out various advances for collagen, transplant compounds of retinoid to cosmetic raw materials, develop new derivatives and compounds, and explore new modified raw materials. Push the safety, effectiveness, and ease of use of cosmetics to new heights.

富勒烯材料在抗光损伤方向的应用研究

Study On Fullerene Materials Using In Photo-Damage Resistance

高纯富勒烯是一种纯碳生物友好材料，具有超强的抗氧化能力被称为自由基海绵，可 持续对抗紫外线损伤。本文通过使用高纯度的富勒烯 C60 与小分子透明质酸钠制备了一种水溶性富勒烯复合物（HAF60）。GC 结果显示样品中无甲苯残留，UV-Vis 结果显示复合物中 C60 依然保持原有分子结构不变；DLS 结果显示水和粒径为 381nm。将 HAF60 与防晒剂甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯（OMC）复配，发现 HAF60 具有显著吸收紫外线的能力。通过 ESR 测定 HAF60 清除羟基自由基的能力，结果表明 HAF60 清除自由基能力显著优于其他抗氧化材料。细胞试验结果表明 HAF60 对细胞不仅具有保护功能，同时对光损伤细胞具有修复能力。本文还以斑马鱼为研究对象，进一步验证了 HAF60 抗光损伤的性能。

High-purity fullerene is a pure carbon bio-friendly material with high antioxidant capacity known as free radical sponges,and can sustainably fight UV damage. In this article we have obtained a kind of fullerene-hyaluronic acid compound (HAF60) using high-purity fullerene and hyaluronic acid .Analyse the residual solvent by GC result display that there`s `no toluene residue in thie compound..UV-analyse views that C60 remain unchanged in HAF60,the particle of HAF60 is 381nm measured by DLS. Mixing HAF60 and OMC revealed the ability of UV absorption by HAF60.Meanwhile,the fullerene compound has shew outstanding function of scavenging free radical including -OH and ROS than other antioxidant materials through ESR. Cell experiment shows that HAF60 can repair injured cells and protect it withstand the light.The experiment using zebrafish proved the ability of light damage resistance of HAF60 ulteriorly

一种可定向抑制痤疮丙酸杆菌生物膜的祛痘新方法

A novel anti-acne method that can directionally inhibit the biofilm of propionibacterium acnes

系统或局部应用抗菌药物抑制痤疮丙酸杆菌是治疗痤疮的重要手段，然而痤疮丙酸杆菌的耐药率逐年升高，使得抗菌药物的祛痘效果越来越不明显。提出了一种可定向抑制痤疮丙酸杆菌生物膜的祛痘新方法，通过抑菌环试验检测了羽清衡对痤疮丙酸杆菌与表皮葡萄球菌的抗菌性，通过结晶紫染色法测定了羽清衡对痤疮丙酸杆菌与表皮葡萄球菌生物膜形成的影响，并对应用了羽清衡的精华液的有效性进行了评价。结果显示，羽清衡对痤疮丙酸杆菌与表皮葡萄球菌无抗菌性，使用羽清衡可以达到定向的抑制痤疮丙酸杆菌生物膜的形成而不抑制表皮葡萄球菌生物膜的形成，人体功效评价显示，含羽清衡的精华液有显著的祛痘效果，且对皮肤有一定的修护功效。