中国化妆品科学杂志

三七提取物富含皂苷、多糖、黄酮等活性分子，是抗衰老化妆品的研究热点。研究表明，三七皂苷可通过清除活性氧、激活 Nrf2/ARE 通路发挥抗氧化作用；经 TGF-β/Smad 信号促进 I 型胶原合成并抑制基质金属蛋白酶活性，同时抑制酪氨酸酶活性和黑色素转运，修复紫外线损伤的皮肤屏障。然而，皂苷分子的经皮渗透效率偏低是应用瓶颈。近年来，微生物发酵工艺被用于提高稀有皂苷含量与活性；纳米脂质体、柔性囊泡、可溶性微针等递送系统改善了透皮吸收；与视黄醇、谷胱甘肽等复配表现出协同增效。当前主要挑战包括人体功效数据不足、递送体系规模化成本较高以及消费者认知有限。随着提取纯化与递送技术持续迭代，三七提取物有望成为抗衰老化妆品中具有差异化竞争力的天然活性成分。

Panax notoginseng extract is rich in active compounds such as saponins, polysaccharides, and flavonoids, making it a focal point in research on anti-aging cosmetics. Studies have shown that Panax notoginseng saponins exert antioxidant effects by scavenging reactive oxygen species and activating the Nrf2/ARE pathway; they promote Type I collagen synthesis and inhibit matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) activity via the TGF-β/Smad signaling pathway, while simultaneously suppressing tyrosinase activity and melanin transport, thereby repairing the skin barrier damaged by UV radiation. However, the low transdermal penetration efficiency of saponin molecules remains a bottleneck for their application. In recent years, microbial fermentation processes have been employed to increase the content and bioactivity of rare saponins; delivery systems such as nanoliposomes, soft vesicles, and soluble microneedles have improved transdermal absorption; and combinations with retinol and glutathione have demonstrated synergistic effects. Current major challenges include insufficient human efficacy data, high costs associated with scaling up delivery systems, and limited consumer awareness. As extraction, purification, and delivery technologies continue to evolve, Panax notoginseng extract is poised to become a natural active ingredient with a unique competitive edge in anti-aging cosmetics.