抗衰老化妆品
抗衰老化妆品专题
专题论文汇编
纳米包埋技术在化妆品功效原料制剂中的应用
Application of Nanocarrier Technology in Cosmetic Active Ingredient Formulations
孔唯一;李荣婷 ;袁焕祥 Kong Weiyi;Li Rongting;Yuan Huanxiang;随着消费者对美的不断追求，大众对化妆品的功效要求逐渐提高，如美白、修复、抗衰、 保湿等。有的功效成分由于溶解性问题，如具有美白功效的光甘草定和具有修复功能的神经酰胺， 导致其难以在化妆品中添加足够的起效量。一些具有保湿、抗衰功能的活性多肽，大部分为水溶 性物质，使其无法在精油类护肤产品中添加，限制了配方应用范围。还有很大一部分功效成分由 于稳定性较差，如维生素 c 和虾青素，极易被氧化，添加在化妆品中易失活从而无法充分发挥功能。 此外，有的化妆品虽然添加了功效成分，但由于其透皮能力较弱，也无法充分发挥其功效。利用 分子组装机制的纳米包埋技术可将功效成分包埋在不同尺寸、不同溶解性的纳米材料中，可以很 好地解决上述溶解性、稳定性及功效发挥问题。本文综述了几类典型的纳米包埋技术在化妆品功 效制剂中的应用。
With the continuous pursuit of beauty by consumers, the demands for the efffcacy of cosmetics have gradually increased, such as whitening, repair, anti-aging, and moisturizing effects. Some active ingredients, due to solubility issues-such as glabridin with whitening properties and ceramides with repair functions-are difffcult to incorporate in sufffcient effective amounts into cosmetics. Additionally, many active peptides with moisturizing and anti-aging functions are primarily water-soluble, making them unsuitable for inclusion in oilbased skincare products, thus limiting the range of formulation applications. Furthermore, a signiffcant number of effective ingredients, like vitamin C and astaxanthin, have poor stability and are easily oxidized, leading to loss of activity when added to cosmetics, preventing them from fully exerting their functions. Moreover, some cosmetics, although containing active ingredients, cannot effectively utilize their beneffts due to weak transdermal absorption. The use of nanocarrier technology based on molecular assembly mechanisms can encapsulate active ingredients in nanomaterials of varying sizes and solubilities, effectively addressing the aforementioned issues of solubility, stability, and efffcacy. This review summarizes several typical nanocarrier technologies and their applications in cosmetic efffcacy formulations.
超引粒——冻龄元胶原抗老效果评价
Evaluation of Anti-aging Effect of Chaoyinli-Donglingyuan Collagen
赵语婷;廖艳萍;段迎春;侯梦琦 Zhao Yuting;Liao Yanping;Duan Yingchun;Hou Mengqi文章介绍了皮肤老化的原因、表现，以及润熙泉品牌针对皮肤老化的抗老思路，提出 为什么选择重组Ⅲ型胶原蛋白、为什么加持“重组弹性蛋白 + 重组纤连蛋白”的原因，评估通过 采用 GALA 增效促渗系统，自研超引粒——冻龄元胶原原料的安全性、透皮吸收能力，以及针对 表皮层、真表皮连接层、真皮层的功效验证能力。
The article introduces the causes and manifestations of skin aging, as well as Runxiquan brand's thinking on anti-aging, puts forward the reasons why to choose recombinant type III collagen and why to add "recombinant elastin+recombinant fibronectin", and evaluates the safety, transdermal absorption capacity, and efffcacy veriffcation ability of self-developed Chaoyinli-Donglingyuan collagen raw materials using GALA enhanced inffltration system for the Epidermal layer, Dermal Epidermal Junction, and Dermis layer.
基于斑马鱼和 HaCaT 细胞模型的玫瑰花提取物保湿功效评价
Evaluation of Moisturizing Effect of Rose Extract Based on Zebraffsh Model and HaCaT Cells
蒋旭峰;缪梦杰 Jiang Xufeng;Miao Mengjie保湿功效是皮肤护理原料开发的基础需求，尤其天然植物活性成分逐渐成为开发的热 点。现有研究指出，玫瑰花提取物具有良好的保湿性，但其活性的系统性研究相对缺乏。本研究 通过斑马鱼模型对玫瑰花提取物进行保湿功效评价。研究发现玫瑰花提取物显著抑制斑马鱼脱水 模型组尾鳍长度和面积的收缩。同时，通过 HaCaT 细胞模型探索了玫瑰花提取物保湿功效的分 子机制。本研究增进了对玫瑰花提取物的保湿功效认识，为其在护肤的产品开发应用提供了科学依据。
Moisturizing efficacy is the basic demand of skin care raw materials R&D, especially natural plant active ingredients gradually become a hot spot of development. Existing studies have pointed out that rose extract has good moisturizing properties, but systematic studies are relatively lacking. In this study, the moisturizing efficacy of rose extract is mainly evaluated by Zebrafish model. The study finds that the rose extract with alcohol extraction has excellent performance in hygroscopic properties: hygroscopic efffcacy is better than hyaluronic acid. In zebraffsh model, it is found that rose extract signiffcantly inhibited the shrinkage of tail ffn length and area in zebraffsh dehydrated model group. At the same time, the molecular mechanism of the moisturizing effect of rose extract was explored by HaCaT cell model. The results enhance the understanding of the moisturizing effect of rose extract, which provides scientiffc basis for its development and application in skin care products.