中医药化妆品专题
中医药化妆品专题
专题论文汇编
中药经典古方在功能性化妆品中的应用
Application of Classical Ancient Prescriptions of Traditional Chinese Medicine in Functional Cosmetics
张灵凤;陈刚;董迎旭;李宁 Zhang Lingfeng;Chen Gang;Dong Yingxu;Li Ning随着科技进步及人们对皮肤健康的追求逐渐提升，一些来自于中药的提取物或功效成 分越来越多地应用到功能性化妆品中，然而许多具有潜在美容价值的古代中药方剂还未被开发。 文章综述了中药及复方在功能性化妆品中的应用，分析了中药经典名方在化妆品开发领域的应用 前景，探讨了网络药理学方法等技术手段对于开发中药经典名方化妆品的助力作用，为中药经典 名方功能性化妆品的研发提供了新思路。
With the advancement of science and technology and people's demand of skin health, Some extracts or efffcacy ingredients from traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) are increasingly used in functional cosmetics. However, many ancient TCM formulae with potential cosmetic value have not yet been developed. These ancient formulae follow the TCM theory of compounding, which reffects a greater advantage in terms of efffcacy. This paper summarizes the application of TCM and compound formulae in functional cosmetics, analyzes the application prospects of classical TCM formulae in the ffeld of cosmetic development, and discusses the role of network pharmacological method and other technical means for the development of classical TCM formulae in functional cosmetic products, which provides a new way of thinking for the research and development of functional cosmetics with classical TCM formulae.
黑参提取物及其抗衰老功效探究
Efffcacy of Black Ginseng Extract on Anti-aging
颜少慰 ;饶歆旭;毛征海;张廷志;殷帅;高畅 Yan Shaowei;Rao Xinxu;Mao Zhenghai;Zhang Tingzhi;Yin Shuai;Gao Chang以黑参提取物为研究对象，对其活性物化学组成进行了含量测定，并通过体外细胞模型、 斑马鱼模型和在体测试对其进行抗衰功效研究。通过 MTT 法检测黑参提取物对成纤维细胞活性 的影响，采用 qRT-PCR 法检测黑参提取物对成纤维细胞中胶原基因表达的影响。再选择与人体皮 肤中 I 型胶原蛋白、弹性蛋白高度保守的斑马鱼模型进一步验证促胶原基因表达的效果。最终经 人体测试证实了黑参提取物具有抗皱、紧致功效，可应用于抗衰老化妆品的开发。
The chemical composition of the actives of black ginseng extract was determined by content determination, and its anti-aging efficacy was studied by in vitro cell model, zebrafish model and in vivo evaluation. The effect of black ginseng extract on ffbroblast activity was detected by MTT method, and the effect of black ginseng extract on collagen gene expression in ffbroblasts was detected by qRT-PCR method. Zebraffsh model, which is highly conserved with type I collagen and elastin in human skin, was chosen to further verify the effect of promoting collagen gene expression. Finally, the anti-wrinkle and ffrming effects of black ginseng extract were conffrmed by human evaluation, which can be applied to the development of antiaging cosmetics.
九款“三花除皱液” 经典中医美容组方的功效对比分析
Comparative Analysis of The Efffcacy of Nine Classic Traditional Chinese Medicine Beauty Formulas For "Sanhua Wrinkle Removal Liquid"
刘翠红;傅裕;胡雨薇;董文学;刘雅思;贺博洋;欧茵怡;吕慧;易俊羽 Liu Cuihong;Fu Yu;Hu Yuwei;Dong Wenxue;Liu Yasi;Ou Yinyi;Lv Hui;He Boyang;Yi Junyu1目的：以经典中医美容组方“三花除皱液”为传统应用基础调配九款组方，对比分析 三花除皱液的功效。方法：采用正交试验制成九款含不同比例的三花除皱液、油脂和乳化剂的三 花除皱美白霜，对清除 DPPH 自由基、清除 ABTS 自由基、酪氨酸酶抑制与弹性蛋白酶抑制指 标进行测试。结果：当九款组方三花除皱液、油脂、乳化剂的质量比 , 为 2.5：3：2（配方 2）时 DPPH自由基清除率45.54%最高，为4：3：3（配方3）时ABTS自由基清除率48.94%最高，2.5：4.5： 3（配方 5）时 ABTS 自由基清除率 48.94%、酪氨酸酶抑制率 85.30%、弹性蛋白酶抑制率 57.14% 最高。结论：组方中的三花除皱液、油脂、乳化剂质量占比不同影响其功效。
Objective: Based on the traditional application of traditional Chinese medicine beauty formula "Sanhua wrinkle removing liquid", nine formulas were formulated to compare and analyze the effect of Sanhua wrinkle removing liquid. Method: Nine kinds of Sanhua anti-wrinkle whitening cream containing different proportions of Sanhua anti-wrinkle solution, oil and emulsiffer were prepared by orthogonal test. The indexes of scavenging DPPH free radical, scavenging ABTS free radical, tyrosinase inhibition and elastic protease inhibition were tested. Result: When the mass ratio of Sanhua anti-wrinkling solution, oil and emulsiffer was 2.5:3:2 (Formula 2), the DPPH free radical scavenging rate was 45.54%, and the ABTS free radical scavenging rate was 48.94% when it was 4:3:3 (formula 3), 2.5:4.5: 3 (Formula 5) showed the highest ABTS free radical scavenging rate of 48.94%, tyrosinase inhibition rate of 85.30% and elastase inhibition rate of 57.14%. Conclusion: Different proportion of Sanhua anti-wrinkle solution, oil and emulsiffer in the formula affected its efffcacy.