中国化妆品科学杂志

为解决千日菊提取物核心活性成分千日菊酰胺水溶性差、生物利用度低的应用瓶颈，本研究基于“机制解析 - 载体构建 - 功效验证”策略，探究其抗衰机制。通过网络药理学，筛选千日菊酰胺抗衰靶点与通路，预测其通过协同调控 AKT1、EGFR、ESR1 等关键靶点，干预PI3K-Akt、Ras 信号通路发挥多靶点抗衰作用。利用“高剪切预乳化 - 微射流高压均质”二级工艺制备千日菊提取物纳米脂质体（AO-NLPs）。表征结果显示 AO-NLPs 粒径为（45.90 ± 0.81）nm（PDI=0.38），Zeta 电位（-55.49 ± 3.50）mV；45℃加速储存 28d 后，粒径仅增长 13.2%，PDI 降低至 0.31，BeScan Lab 多重光散射分析证实其具有优异物理稳定性。人体功效测试表明，含 1% AO-NLPs 的精华液单次使用 0.5h 即可显著改善皮肤状态——皮肤弹性 R2 提升 17.78%、紧致度 F4 提升 25.55%、眼角皱纹体积减少 24.14%、唇部丰满度增加 9.74%；2h 后效果持续增强或稳定，3d 后各指标达到最佳，皮肤弹性 R2 提升 39.42%、紧致度 F4 提升 35.51%、眼角皱纹深度减少 18.87%、眼角皱纹体积减少 30.07%、唇部丰满度增加 19.96%。本研究证实 AO-NLPs 可通过增强透皮递送效率，快速激活多靶点抗衰通路，为开发基于千日菊的高效速效植物抗衰化妆品提供技术支撑。

To overcome the application barriers of poor water solubility and low bioavailability of spilanthol—the core active ingredient in Acmella oleracea extract (AO), this study employed a "mechanism elucidation-carrier construction-efficacy validation" strategy to investigate its anti-aging mechanism. Through network pharmacology, we screened the anti-aging targets and pathways of Chrysanthemum morifolium and predicted that it exerts multi-target anti-aging effects by synergistically regulating key targets such as AKT1, EGFR, ESR1, and intervening in the PI3K Akt and Ras signaling pathways. Preparation of Acmella oleracea extract nanoliposomes (AO NLPs) using a two-stage process of high shear pre emulsification micro jet high-pressure homogenization. The characterization results showed that the particle size of AO NLPs was 45.90±0.81 nm (PDI=0.38), with a Zeta potential of -55.49±3.50 mV. After accelerated storage at 45℃ for 28 days, the particle size only increased by 13.2%, and the PDI decreased to 0.31. BeScan Lab multiple light scattering analysis confirmed its excellent physical stability. The human efficacy test showed that the essence containing 1% AO NLPs could significantly improve the skin condition after a single use of 0.5 hours - skin elasticity R2 increased by 17.78%, firmness F4 increased by 25.55%, eye wrinkles volume decreased by 24.14%, and lip fullness increased by 9.74%; After 2 hours, the effect continued to strengthen or stabilize, and after 3 days, all indicators reached their best. The skin elasticity R2 increased by 39.42%, the tightness F4 increased by 35.51%, the depth of wrinkles at the corners of the eyes decreased by 18.87%, the volume of wrinkles at the corners of the eyes decreased by 30.07%, and the fullness of the lips increased by 19.96%. This study confirms that AO NLPs can enhance transdermal delivery efficiency and rapidly activate multi-target anti-aging pathways, providing technical support for the development of efficient and fast acting plant-based anti-aging cosmetics based on AO.